Anatomy of Nazare Big Wave Wipe Out.

Five hold-downs. A minute and fifteen seconds.

That's 75 seconds under water.


No hold-down longer that 20 seconds.


Intervals between the hold-downs: 3,6,6, and 10 seconds.

(Maybe two breathes each one.)


But those are just numbers.

And they're not your numbers (or mine) by a long shot.


They're Tiago's numbers on a given day at Nazare, Portugal.


But numbers only tell half of a story.

Logic accounts for half.

And the Emotions count for the other.


Most people (almost everyone on the planet)

don't come up after the second wave.


At the peak of any given sport, the pinnacle, the Ishtah...


The game becomes mental.

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