First time I met Jaret Noyola was the afternoon before the Puerto Cup 2019
I didn't know how special that day was.
I do now.
Ever since I've been inspired by bearing witness to youthful bliss.
I'm reminded on a daily basis of the time
when I ran home from school
to change my clothes and tear out of the house for a bike or a ball.
The afternoon of the photos Big Wave Surfers talked safety in the Puerto Cup Press Conference
And Jaret and the local kids were tear assing around solo En Zicatela.
I swam from the Press Conference at Selina to Far Bar where I got these shots.
There was swell and an offshore that produced torrential rain on the backside.
When you could make it to the backside.
I surfaced and he was down there for a while.
Where the waves turn the seconds to hours.
(Spanish Notes: Jaret no llegó facil. Estaba abajo por un rato hermano... donde las olas transforman los segundos a horas.)