jpmwritesMother’s Day Swell. Lives Lost, Lives Saved and the Man Who Follows No One. The Wedge.
Updated: Aug 4, 2020
How many years does it take
to feel confident in the water?
Never.
Any time it almost happens
the ocean teaches me otherwise.
The sea teaches Humility...
And then repeats the lesson
Again and again.
Miyagi style.
Until it's no longer a question.
The sea suffers no hubris.
So to I
No longer suffer hubris.
“Does anyone know
where the love of God goes
when the waves turn the seconds
to hours?”
The Netherlands
Ten experienced surfers and Lifeguards went into the water.
Three came out alive.
Five souls were lost.
And two still out to sea.
Thick foam tipping point
in an already stacked deck in a dangerous game.
Aggressive ocean, big wave swimming and sporting and sailing and boating:
all carry the inherent risk
that you will never come back.
And although no one died,
I learned that lesson from Gilligan's Island.
And... that I wanted to be the professor.
(and that Maryanne
was my type of woman,
Ginger's be damned).
All kinds of things can go wrong in the sea:
The waves are big, the water is cold,
the board could hit you
or something could bite you.
In this case, it was foam.
Did you ever inhale water into your lungs?
(Or been water boarded?
Same concept.)
The body erupts in a coughing fit
that lasts for a couple of minutes
with a red face, accelerated heart rate and high blood pressure.
In the sea, when you breath in water,
all that still happens
but the waves don't stop.
So maybe you can last one set.
But each wave depletes strength exponentially.
And if you come up and get another foamy breathe.
That's it.
And it happens in a minute.
Maybe less.
Not much more.
That’s for sure.
I knew a French recluse in Costa Rica.
He would go into the jungle at night
Barefooted if that makes a difference
to you in how brave he was
(it does for me).
Before he stepped into the darkness he would say,
”Con Permiso.”
He asked permission of the jungle
and all the energy that is out there waiting to kill him.
Before I step into the sea, I say the same.
Every time.
You never know if you're going to come back. Or not.
Yet it draws me in again and again.
"Fair well and adieu
to you fair Spanish ladies,
Farewell and adieu
sweet ladies of Spain.
For we've received orders
for to sail back to Boston
And never more shall we see you
Again."
USS Indianapolis.
Worst disaster at sea in United States Naval History.
Hear from some survivors:
Full Article National Geographic.
Off the coast of Santa Cruz Ben Kelly
an accomplished surfer and shaper
was bitten once on the back of the legs by a pre adult great white.
He was able to paddle-in with help,
and torniqueted off the wound with a leash
(the best you can do)
But the blood loss was too much.
And it happened real fast.
See Full Article ABC Local News.
And as I celebrate the lives of those lost.
I'd like to end with one saved.
And a shout out to the Lifeguards and Rescue Ski Pilots
that allowed all the sons
to return to dry land
during the Mother's Day Swell 2020.
The fear of death always feels the same.
It doesn’t matter how fit or experienced you are.
Whether the waves are two feet or twenty.
Luis Guerro, a fit and experienced waterman felt it
On the Mother's Day Swell.
You can judge wave size for yourself.
What I know is that even the fit and experienced
become depleted after one set.
And somewhere during the second set
things become sleepy and dreamy.
Like it's not even really happening to you.
And you either wake up on the beach
vomiting seawater.
or you don't.
Playa Zicatela is like that bar scene in a Bronx Tale;
Chazz Palminteri standing at the door
palm slapping a Louisville Slugger
(125 Ash).
"Now you can't leave."
There are times in life
when we all need help
Finding a Way Out.
Bravo Luis y todo la comunidad de Puerto Escondido.
Aun más agradecido aún más humilde.
Check out Luis Guerra Photos: @luisguerrra
and Colorado Surf and Farbar the Brand.
Bravo Empire BodyBoards
and Ally Swim Fins
For Supporting Puerto Escondido Athletes.
The Glory. The Wedge.
The Man Who Follows None.
He "Follows" Zero people on IG.
I'd say that makes him a leader.
For Puerto Escondido Daily:
and
For the Wedge:
and