Updated: Oct 20, 2019
Surf Open League Oaxaca 2019.
Playa Zicatela, one of the 10 Heaviest Waves in the World.
Offshore the afternoon before.
The Back of a person
speaks as much as the front
and is equally as interesting.
Most of these surfers
are too easy to shoot frontside.
And people get distracted
by what they see.
es mucho más interesante.
He stretched and stretched
and breathed and went real slow
In everything he did and touched.
The Ritual connects mind, body and spirit.
The Process is physiological as much as ethereal.
Nesher Diaz, Surfer.
One day he might have the view from the top (of a podium... if he wants).
For now, he's waiting his turn.
He's the best of his age. He'll walk up those stairs one day...
Maybe next year.
In two weeks Nesher will be riding for the Asociasion de Surf del Estado de Oaxaca
when the Federacion Mexicana de Surf presenta
Los Juegos Nacionales de Surf
in Puerto Escondido.
Jesus Norberto Cruz, Lifeguard, Bodyurfer.
First time I found Jesus it was a view from above.
The second time I found Jesus he was bodysurfing heavy surf and twenty yards deeper than the deepest surfer.
Jesus goes to the bottom every time.
I called him an animal (con mucho cariño) the first time I saw him.
Hector Motor Santiago, Pride Bodyboards,
Puerto Escondido Leader, a father.
A lot of people feel safer in the water with him around (I know I do).
I already knew that the kids pilot fish him
in the water
In afternoons at Playa Zicatela.
Where 13 year olds
drop in on double overhead bombs.
They feel safer knowing he's watching
to see their head in white water
after a wipeout.
What I didn't know is that they pilot fish him on land as well.
The back shots started with him.
And all the kids around him.
Big Respect Hector Santiago "Motor".
Hector's Back. Pride (and Pride Bodyboards).
Y Algunos Chicos con Sus Patrocinadores y Marcas...
Mario Alberto Aragon, Lifeguard, Bodysurfer.
When you become a lifeguard in Puerto your body changes.
Mira el tamaño de la espalda...
Mi siento muy seguro en el agua
con las salvavidas mirando y metido.
Los dos estan en el line up en las tardes.
All the time.
Pablos Logos, Artist (tattoos) and Father.
Pablo brings his own brand of beautiful energy.
And he inspires others.