Updated: Apr 21
Surfer Mind Training:
Go to the Encyclopedia of Surfing.
It costs $3 a month and you can cancel at any time.
There are 8 Chapters that span from
1000 BC in Peru
(you think the origins are in Hawaii?)
to Modern Day Surf Culture.
You have 40 days.
A Chapter every five days.
Check out the Video Section of EOS.
1968 World Surf Championships... Puerto Rico... it's there.
1955 Makaha Surf Championship... Hawaii... a dozen years are there.
Watch all the videos.
Interviews? Hundreds. Spanning Decades.
And touching on lives
(some that're no longer with us).
Read all of the interviews: "Above the Roar" by Matt Warshaw.
Primary source information.
From the horsey's mouth.
Encyclopedia of Surf started with Matt's
desire to gather info and fill the need
for a catalog of the stories
and the history of wave riding.
He wrote the book in 2003
which has since evolved into
an online entity that continues to grow.
Bravo Matt Warshaw: a good steward
of the Story of Surf and Water.
And the book is on Amazon
(for under 5 bucks!)
Here's the link:
The Body. Static Apnea: Breathe holding without moving.
Start holding your breathe.
You're going to be in the water
and under the water at some point.
Get a stop watch.
See how long you can go.
Write it down.
Practice that for an hour and a half a day.
All at once is best.
But you can split it up.
And best practice would be to do an hour and half in the morn
and another in the afternoon.
And then only use one breathe
Do that for a week.
Week 2 and 3.
Surf Specific Apnea (Non Static)
This week you hold your breathe
but now you do jumping jacks
and push ups, and sit ups and jump rope.
And if you can't get out of the house.
Run in place and hold your breathe.
For as long as you can.
Continue with one breathe between holds.
Hour and a half.
You'll need a friend for this part.
You get your heart rate flying while
holding your breathe with your eyes closed.
At this point your friend socks you
(start with boxing gloves but by the end of the week...
Lose the gloves)
as hard as he can in belly.
And you continue to hold your breathe.
Alternatives and Variations:
No need to be reckless: Avoid head shots.
(You'll get those in the water)
But Be Creative.
Props are fun and funny.
Lightweight lawn furniture is a swing away.
Ikea furniture? Swing away.
Rule of thumb: if it says made in China.
Hard as your partner can
but be mindful of sharp edges.
The blind-folded tackling dummy is an efficacious variation.
You're the dummy.
have fun with it.
After the initial damage and pain,
continue to hold your breathe for as long as you can princess
(there are no time outs after a wipe out).
Take one breathe and keep holding.
Keep your eyes shut.
Have your partner give you another good one in the belly.
Just hold your breathe.
For a professional look
at the art of breathe holding
check out Arthur Guerin Boeri.
Thirty-six year old French guy.
5 time Freediving World Champion
4 times World Record Holder.
Here's a short video from 2018...
The video is in French (so figure that out if you must.)
It's his smile at 53 Seconds.
More to follow with Arthur Guerin Boeri...
It's not what Arthur has done in his career,
it's what he's going to do next
(and then thereafter).
The long game of Life.
Gracias a la vida, que me ha dado tanto!
Here's an article for more on photographer Alex Voyer.
Here's IG for more on Photographer Anne Maury.